Monday, June 20, 2011

Bukit Brown: a place with a rich heritage and biodiversity


Life, has a mysterious way to show us what to pay attention to. If you have stumbled upon this blog-post, it may not be sheer coincidence. It could be life pointing you to pay attention to this place in Singapore that is called Bukit Brown.

The Bukit Brown Cemetery Gate.

I do not have a keen interest in cemeteries. However, life somehow paved the way for me to take a good notice at Bukit Brown, a unfamiliar place that strangely felt familiar to me. Bukit Brown is bordered by Thomson Road, the Pan Island Expressway, Mount Pleasant Road and Lornie Road. Lornie Road is a road that I used to travel frequently on and yet before 18 Jun 2011, I have never stepped into the Bukit Brown cemetery that Lornie Road borders. When I received my first invitation to visit Bukit Brown, my natural response was to accept it.

Bukit Brown is a place with a rich heritage, a tranquil environment, an untouched jungle garden and a place with high biodiversity value. Many Singapore pioneers and notable people are buried in Bukit Brown. Examples include Cheang Hong Lim, Tay Ho Swee, Mrs Lim Nee Soon, Lim Chong Pang, Chew Joo Chiat, Chew Boon Lay, Lee Hoon Leong, Gan Eng Seng etc. I also learnt that many forest bird species (such as the Asian Fairy Bluebird, the White-bellied Woodpecker and the Thick-billed Green Pigeon) and interesting wildlife can be found at Bukit Brown.

The bus-stop that is nearest to the entrance of Bukit Brown Cemetery Gate.
Bus Stop #41149, opposite Singapore Island Country Club (SICC), Adam Road.
Bus services available:  52, 74, 93, 157, 165, 852, 855.
Directions to the cemetery Gate: Walk towards Sime Road, walk along Kheam Hock Road until  you see Lor Halwa.

When I visit Bukit Brown on 18 Jun 2011 with a group of friends, I was pleasantly rejuvenated by the peaceful atmosphere and the lovely scenaries of Nature at Bukit Brown. What intrigued me further were the intricate stone carvings erected within the many grave-sites at Bukit Brown. As best as I have understood, according to feng shui, also known as Chinese Geomancy, these carved images enhance the auspicious aura of the site and protect the tombs.


The male lion.
The female lion with a cub under her paw.



Lions as protectors
Sculptures of lions can be seen at many of the grave-sites. They serve as protectors of the respective grave-site. Usually, the guardian lion sculptures come in pairs. The male lion (sculpture) will usually have a ball, representing the sun, under its paw. On the other hand, the female lion (sculpture) will be seen with a cub under her paw. The next time when you see lion sculptures, you may wish to take a closer look.

This appear to be a sculpture of the Lion Dog with staring eyes meant to scare away evil forces.

Indian guards representing security
Interestingly, we noticed that sculptures of uniformed Indian guards at a number of the grave-sites in Bukit Brown cemetery. Due to a number of historical and social reasons, Sikhs and Indian men from Northern India, were commonly recruited as law-enforcers and watchmen in early Singapore. A number of these Indian men were employed by wealthy individual as watchmen and bodyguards.

Statues of Sikh guards armed with rifles, their dogs and two stone lions watching over the grave belong to Zhou Yulong.

Over time, Indian guards represented a sense of security and loyalty for many people, especially to those who have employed them. As such, I hope it would not be too wrong for me to infer that grave-sites with sculptures of Indian guards are very likely to be those of wealthy individuals who have employed Indian bodyguards?



The magnificent tomb of Ong Sam Leong
The highlight of our visit to Bukit Brown was the double-tomb of Ong Sam Leong and his wife. Ong Sam Leong (1857 - 1918) was born in Singapore. In 1898, he made his fortune when he secured the contract to supply all the labour for mining work that was being carried out by the Christmas Islands Phosphate Co. Ltd.

Gravesite of Ong Sam Leong and his wife. This was uncovered in 2006.

Golden Boy.

Jade Maiden.

The grave is said to be about the size of 10 three-room HDB flats and is the largest grave in Bukit Brown. Aside from being the largest grave, it is also one of the most elaborate graves around. The tombstones are beautifully decorated with intricately carved scenes depicting the Eight Immortals, stories of filial piety and more. The craftsmanship was excellent and could not be easily paralleled by today's craftsmen. Oddly, I felt I have learnt more about the Chinese culture by visiting a cemetery than by reading volumes of book.

This part of the carvings tells the story of  Jiang Ge carrying his old mother.

Stories of filial piety carved in detail on the tombstones.
Chinese ancestor worship goes hand-in-hand with the core Confucian value of filial piety. (Source: "Spaces of the Dead: A Case from the Living", edited by Kevin YL Tan, pg 82.)


An Indian guard found at Ong Sam Leong's grave-site.


What will be the fate of Bukit Brown?
The alarming news is that all the beautiful gifts bestowed by Nature and the refined works of art that I had seen during my visit to Bukit Brown may soon be gone. The Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA) has gazetted Bukit Brown Cemetery as a site for development ('Bukit Brown to make way for housing', Straits Times, 30 May 2011).


Thoughts and reflections
I would cringe to see beautiful works of art and of heritage significance being destroyed by bulldozers and machines. The craftsmen and artists who have created the graves with loving care had probably envisioned the graves to be built to last, for posterity to maintain vital links with their ancestors.

The Jade Maiden. The Golden Boy and Jade Maiden are often found standing on either side of a grave. This couple serves as guides in the Underworld, and finally, guides the soul of the deceased to the Western paradise. (Source: "Spaces of the Dead: A Case from the Living", edited by Kevin YL Tan, pg 74.)

According to the Straits Times article "Tycoon's tomb uncovered" dated 4 Jun 2006, the then Public Monuments Board was said to be keeping watch on the Bukit Brown cemetery and will act if and when it is threatened by redevelopment.

One of my friends, Ms Belinda Tan, suggested that tombs with significance (e.g. the tomb of Ong Sam Leong and his wife) could either be preserved in situ, or at the very least, have their tombstones carefully preserved in the museums.

I would personally prefer the significant tombs to be preserved in situ as a living outdoor museum similar to Pompeii. In addition, I wonder if the rich biodiversity at Bukit Brown will make it a worthy location to be considered as a Nature Reserve? Are there possibilities for the National Parks, the National Heritage Board and the Urban Redevelopment Board to work hand-in-hand to redevelop Bukit Brown into a living outdoor museum located in a Nature Reserve? However, if this could not be done, the next option would be to work closely with the descendants of selected tombs so as to carefully preserve the tombstones in the museums (preferably under the National Heritage Board) for all to see.

Belinda has also made a good point when she commented that Singapore has our own rich heritage and artifacts in our own backyards. I would be most delighted to learn more about my own hometown not by viewing expensive exhibits from other parts of the world, but by having the open eyes to appreciate the rich value of existing artifacts and places of significance that are already available in my own country. What about you?

One of the grave-sites.

Whatever your opinions may be, here is an invitation for you to consider making a visit to Bukit Brown to experience this place that has a rich heritage and biodiversity. Of course, please be respectful of the living beings (e.g. the visitors, wildlife and birds) and the Dead throughout your visit. In addition, you may wish to bring mosquito repellent, wear light-coloured long pants and long sleeves clothes and wear covered shoes with soles the grip the ground well.


Earth deity (Tu Di Gong).
The Earth Deity represented in cemeteries is a god of wealth and  a celestial deity who ensures good fortune, prosperity and safety. (Source: "Spaces of the Dead: A Case from the Living", edited by Kevin YL Tan.)

Acknowledgments
Lots of thanks to Ms Belinda Tan for organising a private walk about Bukit Brown. She has diligently compiled a list of links and resources related to Bukit Brown which had gotten me on a good footing when I did my readings on this subject matter.

Special thanks and appreciation to the most thoughtful Soap Drinker for leading our group to Ong Sam Leong's tomb. Many thanks to my group-mates for their company and great fellowship. One of them, a fine gentleman, provided the much needed shelter from the hot and humid climate with his air-conditioned vehicle. I think the children in our group appreciated having him around.

I recommend interested parties to read this book titled "Spaces of the Dead: A Case from the Living" edited by Kevin YL Tan. There are two chapters in this book that lend a good overview of Bukit Brown. It was thanks to these two chapters (written by Elizabeth McKenzie and Ho Hua Chew respectively) that I could have a better appreciation of the Chinese art, architecture and cultural symbols that I saw at Bukit Brown.

The caretaker shed. If one is lucky to find the caretaker here, he/she could ask for directions to visit the largest tomb.

****
Related posts by other writers:
- The unkempt beauty of Coffee Hill by Jerome Lim.
- Bukit Brown Cemetery by Jeffrey and Flora: Living in Singapore

****
For your convenience, please find below a brief history of Bukit Brown and references used.

History of Bukit Brown
Bukit Brown was named after George Henry Brown. He was a shipowner, trader and broker who arrived in Singapore in the 1840s. Brown's place of residence was located at present-day Mount Pleasant Road, which was close to the present Bukit Brown site.


The area was later brought over by three wealthy Hokkien entrepreneurs, Ong Kew Ho, Ong Ewe Hai and Ong Chong Chew. They came from the same village of Bai Qiao in Xiamen, China. When the trio brought the site known as Bukit Brown in 1870s, they had intended to set up a self-sufficient village for the less well-to-do members of the Ong clan. However, the site was eventually used solely as a burial ground and its ownership was passed on to the Seh Ong Kongsi. In 1918-1919, the Municipal government acquired a section of the Seh Ong Cemetery to serve the need of the wider Chinese community for more public Chinese burial grounds.


The Bukit Brown Cemetery was closed for burial in 1973.


References

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Wednesday, June 08, 2011

Transformed by the dragon's breath!


Do you remember that some time ago, I visited the Thow Kwang Dragon Kiln to catch the wood-firing event of the entire kiln at Thow Kwang Industry Pte Ltd on 25 Feb 2011?

Here is the link to the post on my visiti to the Thow Kwang Dragon Kiln that day: A visit to the Thow Kwang Dragon Kiln Firing event 2011

Fire, salt, and ashes formed part of the "dragon's breath" that had transformed clay to ceramics. If you are interested to enjoy the wood-fired products from the wood-firing event that was held this February, you may like to join the Thow Kwang Clay Artist this coming Saturday for an exhibition of the wood-fired pieces.

I understand from one of the Clay Artists that the official opening of the exhibition is at 2 p.m. on 11 Jun 2011. Please take note that the official opening is for invited guests.

There will be daily exhibition of the wood-fired pieces by Thow Kwang Clay artists from 12 Jun - 2 Jul 2011, from 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.

Image credit: Carolyn Lim



From the Belly of the Dragon
An exhibition of Wood-fired pieces by Thow Kwang Clay Artists
Daily Exhibition: 12 Jun 2011 (Sun) - 02 Jul 2011 (Sat), 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Venue: Thow Kwang Pottery Jungle, 85 Lorong Tawas (off Jalan Bahar)http://thowkwangclayartists.wordpress.com/
(Map of Thow Kwang Pottery Jungle)

How to get there by public transport:
Take MRT to Boon Lay Station. Take bus service 199 at the bus interchange. Alight the bus stop after the PIE flyover along Jalan Bahar, just before the turn to Nanyang Avenue (NTU). You can see a road on the left side with huge pots at the corner before the bus stop. Walk towards that road.It will be a 10 minute walk into Thow Kwang.

Check the bus route here: http://www.sbstransit.com.sg/transport/trpt_bus_timetable.aspx
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Tuesday, June 07, 2011

Railway memories

7 Jun 2011

Dear great-great-great-grandchildren,

Today, I have this urge to write to all of you about my excursions to the Bukit Timah Railway Station and various parts along the KTM railway tracks on 4 Jun 2011. I do not know if you would ever experience these places like I did?

At about 8 a.m. on 4 Jun 2011, I reached the Bukit Timah Railway Station with Bel, Za and Ade.
It was my first visit to that railway station. I was pleasantly delighted to find a stretch of green land in Singapore.

Did you notice that Singapore was spelt "Singapura" on this sign?

I was more surprised when I saw passengers from the train being given permission to get down from the train. Some of them started walking about the tracks. I later learnt that this very train was stopping at Bukit Timah Railway for an hour to give two other trains the priority to pass.

The railway system works on a one-track system. To prevent the collisions of train along the track, the trains have to exchange key tokens with the station master at Bukit Timah Railway Station to be given the right to move to the next section of the track.
The station will cease operation by 1 July 2011.

Many of the passengers have had fun posing with the train.
Patience pays.
After much waiting, there was a train heading North that was approaching the station.

The station master held a green colour flag in one of his hands and waved it. This waving of the green colour flag served as a signal for the approaching train to move forward.

Do you notice that the train master in the foreground has a ring-like item in his left hand? That is a key token.

After a key-token exchange took place, one of the staff members of the Railway Station was found in the signal room changing the signals.

Soon enough, yet another train approached the station, and in a blinking of the eye, the exchange of key-token took place. I'm sorry that I was not fast enough to capture the exchange of the key-token for you.

This was taken at the waiting area of the station. I shall leave it to you to read your history books to figure out why this station is at this time under the care of the government of Malaysia.

Subsequently, the team and I walked towards the direction of the Rifle Range Road. A kind and helpful gentleman, Jerome Lim, prepared a map with clear suggestions on it for us. Thanks a lot for his help, we were able to find our way along the railway track safely, without losing our way. 

This was taken near King Albert Park. When I was younger, I used to pass by the sign "Malayan Railway Bukit Timah Railway Station" on my bus rides to the National University of Singapore almost every weekday. I did not know that the sign was pointing to a treasure trove of rustic charm until 4 Jun 2011!

Are you feeling excited to see this Truss Bridge that spans across Dunearn Road and Bukit Timah Road?
I hope it is still in existence in your time?

Morning glories.

This was taken along the Rifle Range Road. I love listening to the sounds of Nature throughout the excursion.


Nature, I realised, is more precious than gold. Then again, the values of the decision-makers and the people do play a bigger role in deciding what is of greater value.

There was a rain that day. After the rain, we ventured nearby this Truss Bridge that was near the Railway Mall.
We were very cautious. Other than making sure we know the train schedules well, we had to be mindful to be at least three metres away from the railway tracks at all times.
You see, the trains move very rapidly and it was almost impossible to hear or see an approaching train because of the noisy road traffic and a nearby bend of the railway track.

Thanks to Belinda, I have learnt to take a nice photograph of this butterfly to share with all of you.

We travelled to Choa Chu Kang Road where there was a wide level crossing. We waited more than two hours to see a train passing by the level crossing.

Near the level crossing along Choa Chu Kang Road.

My reward for being patient was this photograph of an approaching train that will soon travelling pass the level  crossing across Choa Chu Kang Road. We asked for and obtained permission to witness the train passing by.

And the train was on its way to the north.

As you read this letter, you could have been very aware that your great-great-great grandmother has never been a train enthusiast. I enjoyed the train rides that I had taken across parts of Scotland when I was there for a short trip in my mid-twenties. The reason that the train rides were so special across Scotland were the scenic views of the countryside.

However, for many years, I could not imagine myself taking a train ride across Singapore, from the south to the north and then up to Malaysia. Would it be simply concrete and magnificent buildings that I would see along the way?


Thankfully, this was a misconception of mine. After reading articles written by Jerome Lim of the blog entitled The Long and Winding Road and after visiting various parts of the railway line in Singapore (from the Bukit Timah Railway Station to Choa Chu Kang Road), I felt grateful that somehow, in this country of mine, I could still have a chance to enjoy a glimpse of the charming rural landscape stretching for miles. I thought that the people who have made this possible have a deep sense of wisdom and respect for the land, whether or not they know what they are doing.

Hillview area. Behind the Standard Chartered Bank.

By the time you read this letter, I would have been long gone from the face of this Earth. I now wonder, if you could tell your predecessors what you hope we could preserve for you today, so that you could experience them decades later, what would you have ask for?


In the distant past, people had built grand cathedrals not because they could ever use them. They had built them for the benefit of their future generations. I hope I could play my humble part to shape the better world that all of you will be living in. I am only one voice. Then again, I could be part of a larger collective.

In land-scarce Singapore, my dearest great-great-great-grandchildren, would you have wished that your predecessors had removed a stretch of railway track to build modern buildings and housing in the name of progress, or had preserved a humble stretch of scenic railway track so that you could somehow reminisce how much Singapore has progressed while maintaining a deep connection with its past and a respect for Nature?

Bukit Timah Railway Station.

Maybe you may just think I am simply sharing some old great-great-great-grandmother's stories. Yet, I wish to understand you and your dreams. What would you hope that we could do right now so that we could lay the foundations that are necessary to benefit you and your great-great-great-grandchildren?

The hibiscus that I saw along the railway track, nurtured by a pair of caring hands.

Before I end this letter, I gave my support by liking the Green Corridor's Facebook page, and hope that this will make a little difference.


With love,
Your great-great-great-grandmother.
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