BUKIT BROWN CONVERSATIONS : Ukelady (The NUS Ukelele Girl) meets Ukebaba

Have you heard about the girl who sings and plays the ukelele on the NUS (National University of Singapore) Shuttle Bus to make NUS and Singapore a happier place?

What will happen when Teng Yen Lin aka the NUS Ukelele Girl visits the Bukit Brown Cemetery?

Check out this music video: The Ukelady (The NUS Ukelele Girl) meets Ukebaba!
If you enjoy this video or the music, please 'like' it and share it. Thank you!

***
To read about how this project was initiated, please visit the following two links:
A Music Video for Bukit Brown
http://bukitbrown.com/main/?p=7719

The special Bukit Brown Heritage Tour on 23 Mar 2013

It was a Saturday morning. There were numerous ways I could choose to spend it. My choice for 23 Mar 2013 was to wake up early in the morning, put on my pair of sports shoes and make my way to Bukit Brown. I was there for the special themed tour which would focus on the beautiful tombs of Bukit Brown.

Admittedly, I did not like the thought of having to perspire under a hot sun. Yet, thanks to the canopy of the trees in the area, shade was generously provided during much of the tour. Once the tour started, I was feeling very thankful that the weather was relatively good enough for a learning adventure. We would be on an adventure to learn about the stories embedded in the ornate tomb panels.

Many people turned up for the tour on 23 Mar 2013.

The walk about Bukit Brown
Our first destination was the tomb of Ong Sam Leong. I thought it was a very wise decision to make this tomb the first stop before the sun got brighter. Along the way, the tour guides highlighted and expressed appreciation to the Cub Scouts of America who had cleaned a number of the tombs last weekend.

Along the way to the tomb of Ong Sam Leong, the group saw a few horses who were having their walks about Bukit Brown. I wondered where these horses would have to go for their walks if the construction of the new dual four-lane road across Bukit Brown begins soon after this year's Qing Ming Festival. Perhaps that was why one of the horses seemed to be treasuring every single moment that it could look at the greenery in the Bukit Brown area?

The birds and the squirrels have seemed to make Bukit Brown their haven and heaven. The birds seemed to be enjoying their games of flight about the forested area of Bukit Brown while the squirrels looked as if they were safe in their hideouts. The 20 minutes slow trek to Ong Sam Leong's tomb proved to be a treat to both my eyes and ears as I took time to see the beautiful creation of Nature and to listen to the sounds from the birds and the rustling of the leaves. Do the animals know the eventual fate of Bukit Brown? Maybe they had by their sheer nature, trusted us human beings to look out for them?

At the tomb of Ong Sam Leong
Finally, we reached the magnificent tomb of Ong Sam Leong. If it was a visitor's first time to this tomb, he might be awed by the sheer size of it. From what I have read, the double tomb of Ong Sam Leong and his wife is said to be the size of 10 three-room HDB flat units.

Tomb of Ong Sam Leong and his wife.

Our volunteer guides took turns to share with about the Earth Deity (Fu Shen) and the related deisgns. The Earth Deity's role is to protect the tomb. Interestingly, the area that was set aside for the Earth Deity at Ong Sam Leong's tomb was considerably big. The guides shared with us the auspicious meanings behind the ornate decorations found on the altar of the Earth deity.

- The five bats represented the five happiness（五福）. These are said to be longevity（长寿）, wealth（富贵）, health（康宁）, virtue（好德）, and a good death（善终）.
- The peony in the vase represented wealth and peace respectively.
- The incense burner represented the offspring.

The Earth Deity

To satisfy the curiosity of the tour participants, the guides also shared the story that was being depicted on the front panel of the altar of the Earth Deity for Ong Sam Leong's tomb. It was the story of Zhao Yan pleading for Longevity. The underlying message seemed to be telling us that filial piety is a virtue that will be rewarded.

The story of Wang Pu.

A couple of steps away, the tomb panels of Ong Sam Leong's tomb depict the full set of the 24 stories of filial piety. One of the guide shared with us the story of Wang Pu crying by the grave when thunder rolled and so forth. It seemed that Ong Sam Leong's tomb has important moral messages to communicate to its descendants.

More about tomb panels and tomb designs
After visiting Ong Sam Leong's tomb, the group visited a few other tombs. At the tomb of Oh Sian Guan and his wife, we learnt from the guide that the one of the tomb panels depict stories from The Romance of the Three Kingdoms.

One of the tomb panels of Oh Sian Guan and his wife's tomb.

At another tomb, I learnt from the guide that the pumpkin-shaped tomb structures represent the concept of "many seeds" which is synonymous with having many offspring.

Did you notice the pumpkin-shaped structure?

During our visit, we also learnt that what are commonly known in Singapore as the Peranakan tiles are actually known as the Majolica tiles in other parts of the world. To produce these tiles, glaze containing lead would be used. I learnt that the productions of such tiles have stopped by 1935. These tiles are pretty fascinating to look at.

I was told that the tiles found at this tomb were Majolica tiles that were made in Japan.

By the end of the tour, I felt that I have learnt a little more about the meanings behind some of the tomb designs in Bukit Brown. I am thankful that I have had the opportunity to visit Bukit Brown while it is relatively intact and untouched by development. It is not only the habitat of many species of wildlife, it is the place where learning about our local history and heritage could come physically alive as we see what are on the tombs and experience Bukit Brown.

Many thanks to the guides and the "Brownies" who have volunteered their time and have put in their effort to raise the awareness of Bukit Brown.

Reflections
Soon, it will be the last Qing Ming for the almost 4000 tombs that will be affected by the dual four-lane highway. I wondered if it was absolutely necessary to construct a highway across Bukit Brown at this point in time?

How long would it take for the trees in the affected Bukit Brown forested area to grow to their existing height if they were destroyed? Will anyone in the world today have the craftsmanship and technology to replicate a cemetery that is as unique as Bukit Brown?

A hundred years in the future, what will my descendants have to say and feel if they learnt that a highway that only takes a few years to build was to totally alter the landscape of an almost century-old cemetery that was planned by man and subsequently nurtured by Nature?

This main gate of Bukit Brown Cemetery is likely to make way for the proposed highway.

***
Bukit Brown Cemetery 
Bus services available: 52, 74, 93, 157, 165, 852, 855. 
Nearby MRT stations: Botanic Gardens, Farrer Road, Marymount. 
Alight at Bus Stop #41149, opposite Singapore Island Country Club (SICC), Adam Road.
Alternatively, alight at Bus Stop #41141 and cross the nearest overhead bridge to reach Sime Road.
Directions to the cemetery's gate: Walk towards Sime Road, walk along Kheam Hock Road until you see Lor Halwa.
- Visit Leone Fabre's blog for a step-by-step instruction to get to Bukit Brown Cemetery.

Please also see:
Bukit Brown Heritage Tour Special - "Deconstructing" Tomb Panels (Facebook Events page)
Sat 23 Mar - Special Tour
A great hill for us to remember
Longevity Plea by Yik Han and Claire Leow
Art Nouveau Majolica Tiles by Victor Lim
Bukit Brown Cemetery (Singapore Heritage Society)
Save Bukit Brown Cemetery (Nature Society, Singapore)
A closer look at the magnificent tomb of Ong Sam Leong
Restoring Peranakan Heritage Piece by Piece
The walk to Bukit Brown by Leone Fabre on how to get to Bukit Brown

A morning at Bukit Brown

Bukit Brown Cemetery.

There was no air-conditioning. There was no proper toilet. Yet, I felt blessed with the great riches that Nature has to offer when I spend a morning at the Bukit Brown Cemetery.

I was treated to fresh air that refreshed my body, the lovely chirping of the birds, the gentle rustling of the leaves, the vast area of greenery relatively untouched by development (a rare sight in Singapore), and wonderful company in fellow heritage and/or nature lovers who have decided to spend a morning at Bukit Brown cemetery, possibly regarded by many to be worthy of being considered a Heritage Park.

A horse enjoying a leisure stroll about Bukit Brown cemetery grounds.

It was the morning of 22 Dec 2012, soaked in the wealth of the material culture at Bukit Brown, I was simply fascinated by the rich amount of heritage that is hidden in this place only waiting to be rediscovered. That morning, I was also rewarded with sightings of horses having their leisure morning strolls at Bukit Brown.

During my visit, I saw woodpeckers and heard the sounds of some interesting birds. I think it is way better to spend time out in Nature than in the shopping malls. Hopefully some of the mall owners themselves will agree with me as well.

Double tombs of Tok Cheng Tuan and Oon Tuan Cheng.

Led by the passionate volunteer guides, myself and other participants explored various parts of the cemetery. One of the tombs that we visited was the double tombs of Tok Cheng Tuan and Oon Tuan Cheng. This tomb caught my eyes with the presence of large benches and an extraordinary large size portraits at the tomb-site. We learnt that Tok and his wife's remains are to be exhumed for a proposed highway. I wonder what could be done to save this lovely double tombs?

Resting place of Tay Koh Yat.

Another tomb that we had visited was that of Tay Koh Yat. I had first visited this tomb in June 2011 with a group of friends with Mr Raymond Goh explaining to us about this respectable man who was admired for his patriotism. He had formed and led a self-defence force before the Japanese invasion. Somehow, as I stood before Tay Koh Yat's tomb, I felt a strange sense of deja vu as the volunteer guides gave their account of this respectable man.

We also visited the tombs of Mr and Mrs Tan Yong Thian. It was one of the tombs that my friends and I had visited too back in June 2011. This site has remained very well-maintained by its descendants. Yet much has changed at Bukit Brown and I was feeling anxious that the date of the construction of the proposed highway would be drawing near.

Tombs with stakes beside them.

Is building a highway through a century-old heritage cemetery (and near the water-catchment area) the only and long-term solution to ease peak-hour traffic congestion at the area? Furthermore, during non-peak-hours, travelling along Lornie Road is relatively quite a breeze. I have only more questions as I start asking myself.

A tomb with Dutch inscriptions.

Anyway, one of the interesting tombs that we saw during our tour was a tomb with Dutch inscriptions. This was the tomb of Tan Tang Hoaj who probably have business or trade dealings with the Dutch. This tomb was one of the tombs with a stake, marking that it will be affected by the construction of the proposed highway.

It was rare nowadays to see a Teochew tomb decorated with porcelain. This tomb is the resting place of Tan Swee Kee who was one of the founders and directors of Sze Hai Tong Bank. The porcelain somehow added a poetic touch to the tomb.

The tomb that had left an impression on me was that of Lee Kim Soo who had shared a similar date of birth as yours truly only that he was born in a different year. Lee Kim Soo became rich from manufacturing matches.

When the tour officially ended, on our way to the roundabout, we saw a large monitor lizard camouflaging itself against the textured trunk of a tree. Where would it move to if the construction of the proposed highway were to take place?

During the tour about Bukit Brown, I met the Rojak Librarian in person and upon special request from other participants, he led us to visit the tomb of Tan Keng Lee. We also visited the tomb of Tan Keng Lee's father, Tan Tiong Seng. A moving story was told.

All I had wanted was a morning close to Nature and heritage. I had reaped way more than I had imagined that very morning. I have learnt personal histories than spanned across decades. Many thanks to the volunteer guides for their wonderful work in raising the public's awareness of Bukit Brown cemetery.

A moving poem that I had came across that day.

Bukit Brown Cemetery
Bus services available:  52, 74, 93, 157, 165, 852, 855.
Nearby MRT stations: Botanic Gardens, Farrer Road, Marymount.
Alight at Bus Stop #41149, opposite Singapore Island Country Club (SICC), Adam Road.
Alternatively, alight at Bus Stop #41141 and cross the nearest overhead bridge to reach Sime Road.
Directions to the cemetery's gate: Walk towards Sime Road, walk along Kheam Hock Road until you see Lor Halwa.
- Visit Leone Fabre's blog for a step-by-step instruction to get to Bukit Brown Cemetery.

***
Please also read:
Visiting Tips! (All Things Bukit Brown)
Bukit Brown Cemetery (Singapore Heritage Society)
All Things Bukit Brown
Bukit Brown Heritage Park
Wild Singapore
Oon Tuan Cheng: A Life of Loss
Tok Cheng Tuan (Bukit Brown) by Rojak Librarian
The Fall of Singapore - 15th February 1942
Tay Koh Yat (Bukit Brown) by Rojak Librarian
Heritage trail of Bukit Brown Cemetery by Dexterine Ho
Tan Yong Thian by Rojak Librarian
A dutch tomb in Bukit Brown by Rojak Librarian
Tan Swee Kee (Bukit Brown) by Rojak Librarian
Unveiling Lee Kim Soo by Rojak Librarian
Died of Grief
Tan Keng Lee (Bukit Brown) by Rojak Librarian

A perfect choice: Battlefield Tour at Cemetery Hill

Life often presents us with many choices to make. One day when I was browsing a.t. Bukit Brown, I came across a special Battlefield Tour at "Cemetery Hill" led by battlefield archaeologist, Jon Cooper. Bukit Brown Cemetery was known as "Cemetery Hill" 70 years ago. The tour was scheduled to start at 10 a.m. on 17 Jun 2012 (Sun). Being intrigued to learn more about the fall of Singapore, the tour immediately caught my interest.

Then, I had a dilemma. I had agreed to meet one of my friends for a cycling trip at Pulau Ubin that very same day. Yet there was no way I can split myself up to be physically at two places at any one time. So I was feeling very grateful when the friend of mine agreed to my counter-proposal to go for the Battlefield Tour at Cemetery Hill instead. This proved to be a perfect choice for the day.

Battlefield archaeologist, Jon Cooper kept the participants intrigued with his passionate rendition and sharing of a rather unheard part of Singapore's history. Jon Cooper started the tour with a self-introduction of himself which gave all of us an idea how he ended up in Singapore when his hometown is in Scotland. I learnt that a few years ago, Jon Cooper came across a heritage marker along Adam Road, and that spun off the Adam Park Project. The project explores the defence of the Adam Park Estate by the 1st Battalion of the Cambridgeshires Regiment from the 12th to 15th Feb 1942 and a lot more.

The Battlefield Tour at Cemetery Hill began on an overhead bridge which looks out to a junction where Sime Road and Lornie Road meet. I vaguely recalled that the intersection of Adam Road, Sime Road and Lornie Road was referred to by British troops as "Hellfire Corner" due to the amount of Japanese artillery fire these intersections attracted.

Our guide, Jon Cooper, shared fascinating stories of the battle that was fought on the few days before the fall of Singapore in 1942. The tour led us to Sime Road, to a spot which used to be part of the Royal Singapore Golf Club, to a forested area near MacRitchie Reservoir and finally to what was known as Cemetery Hill. During the tour, Jon Cooper also retraced the advance of the Japanese tank unit and the retreat of the British soldiers. The exciting part was having to find our way through the bushes to locate what were likely to be defensive positions used during the battle.

This area was previously a part of the Royal Singapore Golf Club.

I was left with an impression was that it was quite a fierce battle that was fought seventy years ago. It was definitely not easy to fight a battle in a cemetery since it was not a terrain that most infantry soldiers would be familiar with.

During the tour, co-guide, Claire, shared with tour participants interesting features of Oon Chim Neo's grave in Seh Ong Cemetery, which is believed to be the largest single tomb in the area. I learnt about the interesting geomancy (fengshui) elements such as the dragon claws, tiger paws and more!

Jon Cooper's sharing of how the British soldiers would have tried to build defensive positions when they were fighting the battle within the compounds of the cemetery led me to infer that the soldiers were likely to be very determined to fight till the very end. It would not be an easy battle to fight in a very unfamiliar terrain and a certain level of determination and courage would be necessary.

The tour concluded at a site where a Chinese temple used to stand. How did the Chinese temple have any relevance to that very battle that happened 70 years ago? It turned out that the Chinese temple was one of the few landmarks that can be visible in the dark hours of those days.

Imagine a Chinese temple in the middle of the photo.

From the Battlefield Tour at Cemetery Hill, I have learnt a lot about a part of Singapore's history that was new to me. It was a perfect choice to spend a Sunday morning learning about history and be away from the life in the city.

Many thanks to Jon Cooper for the invaluable work that he has done to unearth a glimpse Singapore's wartime history with the rest of The Adam Park Project team. Hopefully there would be resources for further research and survey work to be carried out.

Now, here is a piece of good news for the people who have missed the 17 Jun 2012 Battlefield Tour of Cemetery Hill: Due to overwhelming demand, there will be a repeat tour in July! Please watch this website for more details: http://bukitbrown.com

***
Please also see: 
Battlefield Tour (Father's Day special)
Missing Amongst the Dead
The Adam Park Project
Four Days in February: Adam Park the Last Battle (exhibition till 24 Jun 2012)
Ho Siak Kuan (Bukit Brown)
My Great Grandfather was a War Hero

Check this out please: a.t. Bukit Brown

Image source: http://bukitbrown.com

Great minds think alike. A loose group of strangers who became friends on the Facebook page, Heritage Singapore - Bukit Brown Cemetery, came up with the online site, a.t. Bukit Brown, to share the stories and knowledge about Bukit Brown Cemetery. Here's a special thumbs up for this new site:

Please check it out here: http://bukitbrown.com/main/

Appreciating Bukit Brown: Remember Our Ancestors Day 9 Oct and 16 Oct 2011

Event: Remember your ancestors' day cum DIY Tour
Dates: 9 Oct 2011 (Sun) and 16 Oct (Sun) 2011, 
Time: From 8.30 a.m. to 1 p.m.
Meeting point: In front of Bukit Brown Cemetery Gates at Lorong Halwa, off Kheam Hock Road


Bus services available: 52, 74, 93, 157, 165, 852, 855. 
Directions to the cemetery Gate: Alight at bus-stop, #41149, opposite Singapore Island Country Club (SICC), Adam Road. Walk towards Sime Road, walk along Kheam Hock Road until you see Lor Halwa.
(For very detailed directions to get there: please check out Leone Fabre's post.)

Do you have an interest in Bukit Brown Cemetery because you have an ancestor who is buried there?


On 9 and 16 Oct 2011, find your way to Bukit Brown Cemetery to search for your ancestors' grave. The search is ever more pressing with the Land Transport Authority's plans build a new dual four-lane road that will cut through through parts of Bukit Brown from early 2013 and with the Urban Redevelopment Authority gazetting Bukit Brown Cemetery as a site for development Straits Times, 30 May 2011).

What does a descendant who have an ancestor buried in Bukit Brown need to do to start the search?

The organizers have outlined the following steps to take (source: https://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=142006435895789):

1) First find out your ancestor name that you think could be buried in Bukit Brown. As the burial records are in English the names will have to be in English

2) Find out the date of death.

3) Your ancestors’ families may have published the obituary notice in the English newspapers which include the date of burial and burial place. You can check out using the newspapers archives : http://newspapers.nl.sg/

4) Once you have the details of the names and date of death, go down to the National Archives of Singapore at 1 Canning Rise and ask for the burial register for that particular year. The burial records are in English and are kept in burial sequence from the date of burial from 1922 up to the year 1960 and follow the Western calendar. (Please visit http://www.a2o.com.sg  for the online burial registers of Bukit Brown Cemetery.) 

5) You can find out the burial plot number from the burial register. The last known address of the deceased is also available. Please note that Bukit Brown cemetery is divided into Blocks and Sections. So you should obtain the Block and Section and the grave number.

With the grave plot number, attend the “Bukit Brown - Remember your ancestors’ day" event on 9 Oct and 16 Oct from 8.30 am to 1 pm whereby there will be guides there to help you look for your ancestors.

Please wear comfortable walking shoes and attire. It helps to bring a walking stick if you should think this would be helpful.

Many thanks to Raymond Goh, Charles Goh, Rosalind M Tan, Charlotte Chu and volunteers for making the event possible. The Facebook event page for this event is https://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=142006435895789.

Notable People who are buried in Bukit Brown

What do the following Singapore pioneers and notable people have in common? Cheang Hong Lim, Chew Boon Lay, Chew Joo Chiat, Fang Shan, Gan Eng Seng, Lee Hoon Leong, Lim Chong Pang, Mrs Lim Nee Soon, Ong Sam Leong, Ong Boon Tat, Mrs Tan Cheng Siong and Tay Ho Swee.

You are right if your answer is that they are some of the many Singapore pioneers and notable people who are buried in Bukit Brown. The more interesting is that very often by taking a good look at the tomb-sites of these notable people, we could have an appreciation of each of their personalities, family background and ancestral roots.

鹿供乳亲. The story of Young Master Tan who dressed himself in a deer's skin so as to nurse the deer for milk for his parents. This was one of the many tomb-carvings found at Ong Sam Leong's tomb-site.

Following my previous visit to Bukit Brown on 18 Jun 2011 to appreciate the rich heritage and biodiversity of this intriguing place which I was previously so close to but yet so far away from during my countless bus-rides along Lornie Road, I visited Bukit Brown yet again. This substantial piece of land with greenery and a rich heritage is located immediately to the south of the Central Catchment Area. It is bordered by Thomson Road, the Pan Island Expressway, Mount Pleasant Road and Lornie Road.

Signs that point to the tombs of a number of notable people (e.g. Mrs Lim Nee Soon, Lim Chong Kuo, Lim Chong Pang, Cheang Hong Lim and Tan Kim Ching) who are buried in Bukit Brown.

My friends and I were very fortunate that during our visit to Bukit Brown on 26 Jun 2011, the Asia Paranormal Investigators, supported by One° North Explorers, was conducting a free unguided tour of Bukit Brown Chinese Cemetery. During the event, placards were put up at notable tombs to describe the notable achievements and contributions that were made by the person buried in each of these tombs.

One of the tiles that tells a story. The peacock symbolizes beauty and dignity.
(Source: "Spaces of the Dead: A Case from the Living")

Lee Hoon Leong

Curiosity insisted that we visit the tomb-site of Lee Hoon Leong (1879 - 1942). He is the grandfather of Lee Kuan Yew. According to wikipedia, Lee Hoon Leong gave Lee Kuan Yew the name "Harry" in addition to the Chinese name. From the placards put up by API, I learnt that the death year of Lee Hoon Leong was based on the Japanese Koki calendar. The Japanese Koki year starts from 660 BC "when the first Japanese Emperor Jimmu ascended the throne".

Tomb of Lee Hoon Leong. Grandfather of Lee Kuan Yew.

Fang Shan

We observed that different calendar systems were used to denote the date that a deceased had passed away.  At the tomb of Fang Shan, possibly one of the oldest, if not the oldest, graves in Singapore, the calendar system used was that based on the year of reign of one of the Chinese Emperors, Qing Emperor Daoguang. Fang Shan died in 1833 and his grave is looked after by the Fang Shee Association. The tomb was relocated to Bukit Brown in 1941.

Fang Shan's tomb. Possibly the oldest grave in Singapore.

Chew Boon Lay

One of my friends requested that we visit the tomb of Chew Boon Lay (1852 - 1933) to pay our respect to this notable person. From the design of his grave, he appeared to be a man who was modest and simple. When I chanced upon the one of the webpages of ONE @ Boon Lay, I learnt that Chew Boon Lay was considered a low-keyed person who was a devoted husband and doting father. He was a successful business man who owned large pieces of land in Jurong. The Boon Lay housing estate and the Boon Lay MRT station were named after him.

Chew Boon Lay's final resting place.

Gan Eng Seng

Students, alumni and staff of Gan Eng Seng School may like to learn that the benefactor, Gan Eng Seng (1844 - 1899), whom their school was subsequently named after is resting in peace in Bukit Brown. Gan Eng Seng established the Anglo-Chinese Free School in 1885 in some shop-houses in Telok Ayer Street to offer free education to the children from low-income families. Gan Eng Seng continued to maintain his support to the school with gifts of freehold property and funding until his demise. The school that was set up was later named after its founder, Gan Eng Seng. I was inspired to learn about the value of active citizenship that was upheld by Gan Eng Seng. His tomb appeared modest yet dignified.

Remembering Gan Eng Seng.

Ong Sam Leong
One of the most magnificent tomb-sites in Bukit Brown that we had made a point to visit was the tomb of Ong Sam Leong and his sons. This tomb that is said to be the size of 10 three-room HDB flat units is the resting place of the deceased notable Ong Sang Leong and his wife. Ong Sam Leong (1857 - 1918) was an entrepreneur who was known to have supplied the labourers for mining work that was being carried out by the Christmas Islands Phosphate Co. Ltd.

The grand tomb-site of Ong Sam Leong.

Ong Boon Tat
Ong Sam Leong's sons were buried nearby. One of his sons was Ong Boon Tat, who was one of the proprietor of New World amusement park which was previously located in Jalan Besar. Perhaps I had at one point in my life passed by Boon Tat Street fairly frequently, as such, I took some time to look at the dignified looking tomb of Ong Boon Tat when I was at Bukit Brown.

Ong Boon Tat's tomb on the right of this photo.

One of the notable living persons of Bukit Brown
Before my friends and I concluded our adventurous trekking and tour of Bukit Brown Cemetery, we had the privilege to speak with Mr Su. He is one of the caretakers of the cemetery. As best as I could remember, I learnt that there are nine hills within Bukit Brown area. Many of the people who are buried in Bukit Brown are Hokkiens. He seemed to be very well-respected in the vicinity and I could infer so by the fact that the occasional fluttering butterflies rested care-freely on him! Here is a special thanks to Mr Su for the invaluable contributions that he has made as one of the caretakers.

The dedicated caretaker, Mr Su, and his colleagues.

The future of Bukit Brown
In Bukit Brown where many notable people and the ancestors of many have found their resting site, there lies an uncertain fate. In late May, there was an announcement that the Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA) has gazetted Bukit Brown Cemetery as a site for development ('Bukit Brown to make way for housing', Straits Times, 30 May 2011).

What will be the fate of Bukit Brown? What would happen to the resting grounds of the 100 000 people who are buried there? Would the good values that are upheld by the notable people who are buried in Bukit Brown erode away if their resting places are removed as a result of the redevelopment plans? What meaning can we really derive if we as a community simply stay indifferent to let premium housing replace the precious heritage and biodiversity at Bukit Brown?

We, the community, can collectively shape the answers.

负米养亲. This segment of the tomb-engravings show the story of Zi Lu, one of Confucius' disciples. This is one of the twenty-four stories of filial piety. Zi Lu travelled long distances to seek work so as to provide for his parents. When he received his pay, he would travel long distances to return home, shouldering a heavy sack of provisions (e.g. rice and staples) for his parents.

In the meantime, if learning about some of these notable people who are buried in Bukit Brown has been interesting for you, I would strongly recommend that you could make a visit to Bukit Brown to reflect how you would like this place to be in a decade time. Please share your comments at this post.

***
Directions to Bukit Brown (for your convenience):

Map of Bukit Brown: http://www.streetdirectory.com/asia_travel/travel/travel_id_17436/travel_site_1/
Bus services available:  52, 74, 93, 157, 165, 852, 855.

The bus-stop that is nearest to the entrance of Bukit Brown Cemetery Gate is bus stop #41149, opposite Singapore Island Country Club (SICC), Adam Road. From this bus-stop, walk towards Sime Road, walk along Kheam Hock Road until  you see Lor Halwa.

***
The Map:
Special thanks to API (Asia Paranormal Investigators) for releasing the map of the locations of notable Singapore pioneers that lie resting in Bukit Brown. This map put together by API will be very useful for visitors who are doing their own Do-It-Yourself tour of Bukit Brown.

The rule of the thumb that I have found useful when making a visit to Bukit Brown is to always be respectful of both the dead and the living.

***
Please also read Bukit Brown: a place with a rich heritage and biodiversity.

***

References:

• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daoguang_Emperor
• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lee_Kuan_Yew
• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gan_Eng_Seng
• http://boonlay.org.sg/roots-of-boon-lay/
• http://www.gess.edu.sg/gess/main/ganengseng.php
• http://www.preshigh.edu.sg/teachers/laick/Singapore/Historical%20Sites/S'pore's%20oldest%20grave.aspx
• http://www.gess.edu.sg/gess/main/gesshistory.php
• http://infopedia.nl.sg/articles/SIP_848_2004-12-28.html
• http://infopedia.nl.sg/articles/SIP_1552_2009-08-28.html
• http://infopedia.nl.sg/articles/SIP_1461_2009-02-19.html
• http://infopedia.nl.sg/articles/SIP_1358_2009-07-13.html
• http://www.ethosbooks.com.sg/store/mli_viewItem.asp?idProduct=270 (Spaces of the Dead: A Case from the Living, edited by Kevin YL Tan.)
• http://china-corner.com/24fp/index.asp (Twenty-Four stories of Filial Piety.)

****

Save Bukit Brown Online Petition

There is an online petition put up by Mr Irving C. Johnson to save Bukit Brown Cemetery, which is one of Singapore's oldest and historically rich cemeteries. If you care to support this cause, please sign the online petition that is found here: http://www.ipetitions.com/petition/bukitbrowncemetery/ (Please take note that after putting up your signature, the site may redirect you to a page to request for donation. You may simply terminate the redirection by closing the page.)

Bukit Brown: a place with a rich heritage and biodiversity

Life, has a mysterious way to show us what to pay attention to. If you have stumbled upon this blog-post, it may not be sheer coincidence. It could be life pointing you to pay attention to this place in Singapore that is called Bukit Brown.

The Bukit Brown Cemetery Gate.

I do not have a keen interest in cemeteries. However, life somehow paved the way for me to take a good notice at Bukit Brown, a unfamiliar place that strangely felt familiar to me. Bukit Brown is bordered by Thomson Road, the Pan Island Expressway, Mount Pleasant Road and Lornie Road. Lornie Road is a road that I used to travel frequently on and yet before 18 Jun 2011, I have never stepped into the Bukit Brown cemetery that Lornie Road borders. When I received my first invitation to visit Bukit Brown, my natural response was to accept it.

Bukit Brown is a place with a rich heritage, a tranquil environment, an untouched jungle garden and a place with high biodiversity value. Many Singapore pioneers and notable people are buried in Bukit Brown. Examples include Cheang Hong Lim, Tay Ho Swee, Mrs Lim Nee Soon, Lim Chong Pang, Chew Joo Chiat, Chew Boon Lay, Lee Hoon Leong, Gan Eng Seng etc. I also learnt that many forest bird species (such as the Asian Fairy Bluebird, the White-bellied Woodpecker and the Thick-billed Green Pigeon) and interesting wildlife can be found at Bukit Brown.

The bus-stop that is nearest to the entrance of Bukit Brown Cemetery Gate.

Bus Stop #41149, opposite Singapore Island Country Club (SICC), Adam Road.

Bus services available:  52, 74, 93, 157, 165, 852, 855.

Directions to the cemetery Gate: Walk towards Sime Road, walk along Kheam Hock Road until  you see Lor Halwa.

When I visit Bukit Brown on 18 Jun 2011 with a group of friends, I was pleasantly rejuvenated by the peaceful atmosphere and the lovely scenaries of Nature at Bukit Brown. What intrigued me further were the intricate stone carvings erected within the many grave-sites at Bukit Brown. As best as I have understood, according to feng shui, also known as Chinese Geomancy, these carved images enhance the auspicious aura of the site and protect the tombs.

The male lion.

The female lion with a cub under her paw.

Lions as protectors
Sculptures of lions can be seen at many of the grave-sites. They serve as protectors of the respective grave-site. Usually, the guardian lion sculptures come in pairs. The male lion (sculpture) will usually have a ball, representing the sun, under its paw. On the other hand, the female lion (sculpture) will be seen with a cub under her paw. The next time when you see lion sculptures, you may wish to take a closer look.

This appear to be a sculpture of the Lion Dog with staring eyes meant to scare away evil forces.

Indian guards representing security
Interestingly, we noticed that sculptures of uniformed Indian guards at a number of the grave-sites in Bukit Brown cemetery. Due to a number of historical and social reasons, Sikhs and Indian men from Northern India, were commonly recruited as law-enforcers and watchmen in early Singapore. A number of these Indian men were employed by wealthy individual as watchmen and bodyguards.

Statues of Sikh guards armed with rifles, their dogs and two stone lions watching over the grave belong to Zhou Yulong.

Over time, Indian guards represented a sense of security and loyalty for many people, especially to those who have employed them. As such, I hope it would not be too wrong for me to infer that grave-sites with sculptures of Indian guards are very likely to be those of wealthy individuals who have employed Indian bodyguards?

The magnificent tomb of Ong Sam Leong
The highlight of our visit to Bukit Brown was the double-tomb of Ong Sam Leong and his wife. Ong Sam Leong (1857 - 1918) was born in Singapore. In 1898, he made his fortune when he secured the contract to supply all the labour for mining work that was being carried out by the Christmas Islands Phosphate Co. Ltd.

Gravesite of Ong Sam Leong and his wife. This was uncovered in 2006.

Golden Boy.

Jade Maiden.

The grave is said to be about the size of 10 three-room HDB flats and is the largest grave in Bukit Brown. Aside from being the largest grave, it is also one of the most elaborate graves around. The tombstones are beautifully decorated with intricately carved scenes depicting the Eight Immortals, stories of filial piety and more. The craftsmanship was excellent and could not be easily paralleled by today's craftsmen. Oddly, I felt I have learnt more about the Chinese culture by visiting a cemetery than by reading volumes of book.

This part of the carvings tells the story of  Jiang Ge carrying his old mother.

Stories of filial piety carved in detail on the tombstones.

Chinese ancestor worship goes hand-in-hand with the core Confucian value of filial piety. (Source: "Spaces of the Dead: A Case from the Living", edited by Kevin YL Tan, pg 82.)

An Indian guard found at Ong Sam Leong's grave-site.

What will be the fate of Bukit Brown?
The alarming news is that all the beautiful gifts bestowed by Nature and the refined works of art that I had seen during my visit to Bukit Brown may soon be gone. The Urban Redevelopment Authority (URA) has gazetted Bukit Brown Cemetery as a site for development ('Bukit Brown to make way for housing', Straits Times, 30 May 2011).

Thoughts and reflections
I would cringe to see beautiful works of art and of heritage significance being destroyed by bulldozers and machines. The craftsmen and artists who have created the graves with loving care had probably envisioned the graves to be built to last, for posterity to maintain vital links with their ancestors.

The Jade Maiden. The Golden Boy and Jade Maiden are often found standing on either side of a grave. This couple serves as guides in the Underworld, and finally, guides the soul of the deceased to the Western paradise. (Source: "Spaces of the Dead: A Case from the Living", edited by Kevin YL Tan, pg 74.)

According to the Straits Times article "Tycoon's tomb uncovered" dated 4 Jun 2006, the then Public Monuments Board was said to be keeping watch on the Bukit Brown cemetery and will act if and when it is threatened by redevelopment.

One of my friends, Ms Belinda Tan, suggested that tombs with significance (e.g. the tomb of Ong Sam Leong and his wife) could either be preserved in situ, or at the very least, have their tombstones carefully preserved in the museums.

I would personally prefer the significant tombs to be preserved in situ as a living outdoor museum similar to Pompeii. In addition, I wonder if the rich biodiversity at Bukit Brown will make it a worthy location to be considered as a Nature Reserve? Are there possibilities for the National Parks, the National Heritage Board and the Urban Redevelopment Board to work hand-in-hand to redevelop Bukit Brown into a living outdoor museum located in a Nature Reserve? However, if this could not be done, the next option would be to work closely with the descendants of selected tombs so as to carefully preserve the tombstones in the museums (preferably under the National Heritage Board) for all to see.

Belinda has also made a good point when she commented that Singapore has our own rich heritage and artifacts in our own backyards. I would be most delighted to learn more about my own hometown not by viewing expensive exhibits from other parts of the world, but by having the open eyes to appreciate the rich value of existing artifacts and places of significance that are already available in my own country. What about you?

One of the grave-sites.

Whatever your opinions may be, here is an invitation for you to consider making a visit to Bukit Brown to experience this place that has a rich heritage and biodiversity. Of course, please be respectful of the living beings (e.g. the visitors, wildlife and birds) and the Dead throughout your visit. In addition, you may wish to bring mosquito repellent, wear light-coloured long pants and long sleeves clothes and wear covered shoes with soles the grip the ground well.

Earth deity (Tu Di Gong).

The Earth Deity represented in cemeteries is a god of wealth and  a celestial deity who ensures good fortune, prosperity and safety. (Source: "Spaces of the Dead: A Case from the Living", edited by Kevin YL Tan.)

Acknowledgments
Lots of thanks to Ms Belinda Tan for organising a private walk about Bukit Brown. She has diligently compiled a list of links and resources related to Bukit Brown which had gotten me on a good footing when I did my readings on this subject matter.

Special thanks and appreciation to the most thoughtful Soap Drinker for leading our group to Ong Sam Leong's tomb. Many thanks to my group-mates for their company and great fellowship. One of them, a fine gentleman, provided the much needed shelter from the hot and humid climate with his air-conditioned vehicle. I think the children in our group appreciated having him around.

I recommend interested parties to read this book titled "Spaces of the Dead: A Case from the Living" edited by Kevin YL Tan. There are two chapters in this book that lend a good overview of Bukit Brown. It was thanks to these two chapters (written by Elizabeth McKenzie and Ho Hua Chew respectively) that I could have a better appreciation of the Chinese art, architecture and cultural symbols that I saw at Bukit Brown.

The caretaker shed. If one is lucky to find the caretaker here, he/she could ask for directions to visit the largest tomb.

****
Related posts by other writers:
- The unkempt beauty of Coffee Hill by Jerome Lim.
- Bukit Brown Cemetery by Jeffrey and Flora: Living in Singapore

****
For your convenience, please find below a brief history of Bukit Brown and references used.

History of Bukit Brown
Bukit Brown was named after George Henry Brown. He was a shipowner, trader and broker who arrived in Singapore in the 1840s. Brown's place of residence was located at present-day Mount Pleasant Road, which was close to the present Bukit Brown site.


The area was later brought over by three wealthy Hokkien entrepreneurs, Ong Kew Ho, Ong Ewe Hai and Ong Chong Chew. They came from the same village of Bai Qiao in Xiamen, China. When the trio brought the site known as Bukit Brown in 1870s, they had intended to set up a self-sufficient village for the less well-to-do members of the Ong clan. However, the site was eventually used solely as a burial ground and its ownership was passed on to the Seh Ong Kongsi. In 1918-1919, the Municipal government acquired a section of the Seh Ong Cemetery to serve the need of the wider Chinese community for more public Chinese burial grounds.


The Bukit Brown Cemetery was closed for burial in 1973.


References

• http://infopedia.nl.sg/articles/SIP_1358_2009-07-13.html (Bukit Brown Municipal Cemetery by Kartini Saparudin, written on 13 Jul 2009.)
• http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10150329432799922&set=o.128744483819657&type=1&theater (Ms Belinda Tan's compilation of links and resources related to Bukit Brown.)
• http://www.ethosbooks.com.sg/store/mli_viewItem.asp?idProduct=270 (Spaces of the Dead: A Case from the Living, edited by Kevin YL Tan.)
• http://api.sg/main/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=149&Itemid=106 (Free Bukit Brown Chinese Cemetery DIY Tour by API on 19 and 26 Jun 2011.)
• http://newspapers.nl.sg/Digitised/Article/straitstimes20060604.2.5.13.aspx ("Tycoon's tomb uncovered." The Straits Times, 4 Jun 2006, pg 12.)
• http://newspapers.nl.sg/Digitised/Article/straitstimes19930112.2.32.10.aspx ("Sikh guards at Chinese tombs show there were strong links." The Straits Times, 12 Jan 1993, pg 23.)
• http://newspapers.nl.sg/Digitised/Article/straitstimes19930102.2.7.6.aspx ("Sikh guards watch over grave." The Straits Times, 2 Jan 1993, pg 3)
• Tan. , N.P.T. (2007). Bukit Timah: A Heritage trail. Singapore: National Heritage Board.
• Savage, V. and Yeoh, B.S.A. (2004). Toponymics: A Study of Singapore Street Names. Singapore: Marshall Cavendish International. 
• http://china-corner.com/24fp/index.asp (Twenty-Four stories of Filial Piety.)
• http://www.facebook.com/home.php?sk=group_104232399671446 (Save Bukit Brown Cemetery Facebook group.)